Day 1 of the Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2019 at Jio Garden in Mumbai, India on January 30, 2019.
Photo : FS Images / Lakme Fashion Week / IMG Reliance
Mumbai, 30th January 2019: The first show on opening day at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2019 has always been reserved for bright young talent and the 27th batch of four Gen Next Designers presented by INIFD created a sensation on the ramp.
AMRAPALI SINGH – NOSTALGIA REVISITED
Amrapali Singh’s fashion fundas are right on track. With a Masters in Fashion from Marangoni Istituti Italy, her “Birdwalk” label and her export house have kept her in total sync with the fashion happenings.
Amrapali’s “Queen of Hearts” collection was all about simple, comfort and playful appeal inspired by the pack of cards. With Giza cotton, net, cotton silk organza, and silk chiffon as the base, Amrapali limited the color story to red, white and black. Monoprints, hand and machine embroidery, fun patches, scallops, stripes, and lace, added to the design elements of the collection, while pleats and gathers gave a feminine flounce and twist to the garments.\
A stunning black dress and another in grey, both with a black web-like detailing, had a nostalgic vibe, but the dazzling red/black calf length ensemble with diamond pattern and cape revealed a distinct stylish flair. Dolman sleeves for a black and white bodice ended with a sheer, white skirt embellished with quaint motifs. The black/white vertical graduating striped maxi and the black/grey maxi skirt with a white scalloped blouse had a prominent retro vibe.
MADHUMITA NATH – SOOTHING THE SENSES.
Textiles are the solid base on which Madhumita Nath, for her label, ‘Ek Katha’ created her collection called “Bliss”, for the coming season. A textile design graduate from the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, Madhumita’s textile experiences include working with SEWA to master the embroidery technique by the Garasia Jat Tribes of Kutch. To further perfect her knowledge she worked with Weavetex and P. I. Industries. Her ensembles on the ramp were a serene mix of natural, beige, raw white, mocha and soft yellow, all embellished with organic prints. The silhouettes were kept very relaxed, laid back and bohemian.
Using a combination of textures created with herringbone and diamond weaves there were organic hand-woven patterns along with the prints that created a calm essence for the garments. A chevron ‘V’ striped pencil skirt, tiered flouncy skirt, striped jumpsuit, a multiprint midi, and pinafore were great additions to the collection. The smart jacket over a sheer white dress, cropped/striped pants, floppy large labels for striped/solid patched coat with printed lining and a bandeau top teamed with a paneled skirt, presented a well-edited look.
SUNAINA KHERA – FASHION SENTIMENTS
With a celebrity client list of Bollywood stars like Sonam K Ahuja and Kriti Sanon, Sunaina Khera, a graduate from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Delhi, interned with top couturier Gaurav Gupta. Her collection called, “A Long Way Home”, brought together the feelings of mind, body, and spirit that revolved around grief. Each garment spoke of emotion as “Denial” came in the form of sheer tulle veils and tonal embroidery on black and navy. “Anger”, was presented with bold hues of violet and red splashed with sequins and hints of lace.
“Negotiation”, for Sunaina was in shades of muted pink, blue, dull grey and a riot of embroidery. When it came to “Depression” there was a stylish lull with beautiful paisleys, highlighting the greys and blues. Finally, for “Acceptance”, Sunaina brought serene, white, pretty, florals with sparkling sequins to denote peace.
Opening the collection with a black sari and beaded blouse, the look progressed to a grey tulle shaded dress with ornate bodice, black net appliquéd with flowers for a transparent dress, over shorts and bandana top. The looks then moved to more glamour when a beaded sequined bodice for a white, flared, maxi appeared. Figure-hugging, rouched gown, silver cropped top with a slim maxi sheer skirt, a white sparkling long sheath and the final white sari with 3D flowers, teamed with a strappy choli, proved that the collection was meant for evening glamour.
UJJWALA BHADU – CULTURE CRAFT FUSION
With a BFA in Fashion Design from Parsons, New York, Ujjwala Bhadu, further enhanced her skills when she interned with Bibhu Mohapatra, Oscar de la Renta, Theory and Philip Lim.
The collection in vibrant hues was a fusion of cultures and crafts with intense textiles, which were merged with color and silhouettes that resulted in a fun but functional and wearable line of clothes.
Colors inspired Ujjwala to go deep into the hues through Annie Albers’ weaving workshop in Bauhaus. Blue, off-white, yellow, rosy tones and peachy red highlighted cotton sateen, while silk Gazar, created tactile surfaces with laser cuts, pleats, and inserts. Knitwear was the star of the collection for fitted dresses and tops.
The ensembles brought together knit pleats, knitted raffia fringe and the textures of weaves. Funky oversized trousers were highlighted with red quirky lines; while a long-sleeved jumper in multi-colored horizontal stripes was an apt coordinate. Tassels played a major role as they highlighted the hemline of a slinky knit sheath. Geometric prints appeared for skirts, pinafore, mini shorts, and a slip dress. The front printed tie-up kurta and the printed midi were cool summer wear with some interesting construction.
“For the gen next show, we went for a statement look. I wanted to use distinct eyebrows with strong pops of color creating a washed tint. For the lip, we wanted to use a rich nude that complemented the pop of color. We used the “brunch nude” shade from the new Lakmé Absolute Matte Ultimate lip colors with argan oil”, said Mariana, official Lakmé makeup expert at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2019.
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