MUMBAI: The ‘Buna’ label by Pallavi Shantam brought a collection that was all about freshness, romance and large doses of optimism to Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020.Called “Yours Truly” it was a dreamy line, which presented a beautiful mix of predominantly whites that flowed gently into ivory. Pallavi a National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar graduate in 2002 started the ‘Buna’ label in 2017, which was inspired by the craft, clusters she visited in Gujarat, Rajasthan and West Bengal. The ‘Buna’ label (which means “Woven” in Hindi) engages the services of artisan for weaving and printing that has created handlooms, cotton, silks, and delicate trims.
Known for the sheer elegant feminine charm of her garments, Pallavi worked with delicate silks, Chanderis, and mulmul. There were cotton and cotton silks from Bengal with Sanganer block prints that added to the charm of the collection. Embroidery was the focal point of the ‘Buna’ brand, which Pallavi used in a subtle and refined manner. There was a discreet use of French knots, sequins and thread work that added to the beauty of the creations.
The bouquets of exotic posies were strewn on the flowing swirling tiered dresses that gently kissed the floor, while intricately pleated midis were highlighted with floral accents. Ensuring her silhouettes summer-worthy, Pallavi kept them billowy and fluid with detailing, like hand pleating, bow ties and delicate vintage lace that added to the fragile beauty of the collection. The expert hand embroidery appeared with the hand block prints on the flowing empire line midis. Girly off-shoulder summer dresses were accentuated with string bows. Sleeves were at times, raglan or at other times gently billowing in long or short lengths.
The all-white collection aimed to bring out the femininity in women, in silhouettes that gave a very chic vibe. From sheer jackets to long, lace dresses with exaggerated bows and pants tied at the ankle, the designer let the garments speak for themselves. Very ideal for the summer season, the line aimed at women who long for comfort but class. Contrast embroidered yokes, embellished waist interest, side slit pockets with tiny floral touches, tie-up low back interest for cool midis were some of the more interesting aspects of the ensembles.
For summer wear that is created with a lot of love and signed off as “Yours Truly”, Pallavi Shantam’s ‘Buna’ label sent a very sublime fashion message for the coming season.
Designer Jayati Goenka stayed true to her brand’s ethos with her collection “Evolve 2020” which was aimed at the sartorial needs of the go-getting dresser who needs a versatile minimalistic wardrobe. There was a marked understated fashion element in the collection, which had both functionalities but with a style that would be ideal for daytime glamour.
The color story was muted indigo and grey, which is the brand’s distinct identity and dyed with Kashish Bhasma that is used in Ayurveda. The silhouettes were utterly feminine but modest and simple, with layering playing an important role in presenting the look. The highlight of the creations was the hand-painted textiles and hand block prints in natural dyes that achieved a bespoke look for the garments. The vision of lines and ripples was cleverly achieved with the handprints that gave a unique appeal to the ensembles.
With a collection full of muted tones and printed circles and stripes, Jayati’s creations were a mélange of unconventional designs. From shirt dresses to pleated pants, cropped hoodies, and belts, the collection had a very enthusiastic charm. The identifying aspect of the clothes was its sustainable quality. Many unutilized garments that are often added to a brand’s inventories were resurrected, redesigned and reworked by Jayati with great care and brought on the ramp as season less wardrobe-essentials.
The pretty actor, Neha Mahajan sashayed down the runway in a dark blue asymmetric kurta and printed pants, while the blue jacket with stripes and dots made a striking fashion statement.
“Evolve 2020” by Jayati Goenka offered perfect sustainable fashion with creative stylish elements for the coming season.
Riddhi Jain an alumnus of the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad who is an award-winning textile designer, started her label ‘Medium’ that offers apparel and home textiles with minimum waste but maximum creativity. Riddhi’s clothes are known for a combination of hand woven and resist dyeing techniques that are done in natural and Azo-free dyes.
Her collection for Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020 was quaintly called “Out of the Blue Red Yellow” which was revisited and redefined from her earlier garment collection “Out of The Blue”. So, her little couplet – “A dot on a walk, meets yellow, out of the blue, and red swings by” aptly described the collection in verse.
An assortment of dots was the basis of apparel and arranged on the fabrics. Moving and swirling, while forming different shapes and forms, the dots guided the audience on the functionality of the ensembles. Synchronized with the dots was the sudden appearance of Shibori threads that added to the crafted concept of the clothes. The fabrics were hand woven and often the ensembles were hand-stitched that aimed at minimum wastage, combined with responsible craft usage with innovative designs.
With a collection that had primarily saris draped in versatile ways, Medium was an extremely beautiful amalgamation of 7 saris along with kaftan, apron dress and asymmetric tunic with a soft cape. Shibori, tie, and dye techniques came alive on the ramp, while the orange sari with a sleeved pallav was a definite trend setter. The silhouettes were easy on the eye with comfort being a key factor for the wearer.
When it’s colors, crafts, weaves and sustainable fashion that trendsetters want for the coming season, the “Out of the Blue Red Yellow” collection by Riddhi Jain for her label ‘Medium’ will be a timeless addition.
When a collection is the combined creativity of 700 women from rural Rajasthan, the show has to be a great offering of craft and fabrics. RAAB the premium brand under the Sadhna Women’s Handicrafts Enterprise presented its debut line “Connecting the Dots” which was a collection of beautiful practical wearable ensembles. 50 trained artisan groups have been part of Sadhna for over 20 years and the 700 women involved make a sustainable living. The RAAB collection showcased the work of the highly skilled women who are experts in appliqué work hand embroidery, cutting and tailoring.
The collection followed the brand’s unique style statement and ignored current fashion trends. The underlying philosophy has always been long-lasting, timeless, handcrafted clothes that move seamlessly through seasons and years. The garments featured five different cotton fabrics along with Khadi. The line included comfy dresses, tops, trousers, lots of overlays, stoles, and saris with numerous mix and match options. Detailing was of prime importance as sheer and solids with mulmul, organdie and Khadi brought to hand and reverse appliqué techniques to the forefront. Simple geometrics like dots, dashes, and lines were highlighted as embellishments and appliqués. The zero-waste policy was evident by piecing different fabric bits and embroidery to achieve items like stoles and saris. From long white tunics to jackets in muted browns and whites, the ‘Raab’ label used very minimalistic embroidery letting the garments speak for themselves. Tassels along with intricate thread work added to the charm.
When the fashion followers are looking for clothes that not only make fashion statements but also support women in rural India, then the “Connecting the Dots” collection by RAAB will give emotional as well as fashionable satisfaction.
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2014 The Global Indian New Network (TGINN)